Albania is a Balkan country in South East Europe enjoying miles of pristine coastline along the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. The country was completely closed off to outsiders until the early 1990’s following the death of the long term communist dictator Envor Hoxha.
Since then, the country has been slowly opening to tourism and now receives over 3 million tourists annually. In general, Albania is now an easy country to visit albeit you’d be hard pressed to find a friend who has visited.
I was lucky to enjoy a two week road trip in Southern Albania and as a result I have concluded the best places to visit in Albania and put together the following Albania Road Trip itinerary.
Follow this route and you will experience two UNESCO World Heritage cities, some of the best beaches in Europe, ancient Ottoman ruins and the warmth of the locals.
I have written a full “Albania Travel Guide – All you need to know” which gives an insight into what to expect before you visit the country and top tips to prepare yourself.
Albania Road Trip Stop 1: Saranda
Saranda is in the heart of the Albanian Riviera and makes the perfect starting point for the Albania Road Trip. Moreover, if you arrive by ferry from Corfu this is naturally where you will start your trip.
The Hasan Tahsini Boulevard curves all around the horseshoe bay in Saranda, allowing one to walk from end to end. There are many bars and restaurants to choose from offering great views of the sea. There is fantastic nightlife here with many different places to go.
Best things to do in Saranda
Relax on a choice of Beaches
There are 3 public beaches in the centre of the city, and they are perfectly good to visit. The best beaches are privately owned by various hotels. Anyone can visit, but you are expected to pay for sunbed and parasol hire, and order drinks. The typical cost for 2 sunbeds and a parasol was 800 LEK to 1000 LEK.
Check with your hotel or hostel, even if it doesn’t have its own beach, often they have partnerships with other hotels so you can use the sunbeds for free, and even get a discount on food and drink.
Enjoy Boat trips on the Adriatic Sea
A top activity I recommend in Saranda is to get out on the water and enjoy a boat cruise trip. Dotted around the bay you will see many stalls selling various boat tours. For example, choose between full day boat tours, or evening sunset and night tours.
An added bonus, these boats look like old pirate ships, and they have a party atmosphere with music playing throughout. These therefore allow you to explore some of the more remote beaches and enjoy the crystal-clear Ionian Sea.
Generally, the day boat tours will leave the marina at 10am and return about 5pm. The cost is €20, or you can pay €40 for food and two drinks. During the boat cruises, you will enjoy stops at 3 different beaches allowing time to swim and relax throughout the day.
In addition, the evening boat tours costs €10 and includes a free drink and lasts approx. 1 hour. I booked with pashaj_cruises and I would highly recommend.
Visit Ancient Ruins at Butrint National Park
Butrint National Park is only 30 minutes’ drive from Saranda. It is the most famous attraction in the South of Albania and the most visited archaeological park in the country. Butrint is a complex of ruins and is still being excavated today.
This is definitely a place to visit for any history and culture buffs. I would recommend planning 2-3 hours here to see everything.
Where to stay in Saranda
I stayed at Hasta La Vista Hostel in Saranda and would highly recommend it. Importantly, it is clean, the rooms have air-con and there are great communal spaces.
Additionally there is a huge basement with pool table and sofas to chill, relax and mingle with other travellers. They also have an agreement with one of the hotels for free sunbeds and a 20% discount on food and drink.
In summary, definitely stay here if you prefer hostels to hotels.
Albania Road Trip Stop 2 : Himarë
Next stop is Himarë, an hour’s drive north of Saranda on the Albanian Riviera. Himarë is much smaller than Saranda but equally delightful. For instance, it has a pretty promenade to walk along adjacent to the sea and many great places to eat and drink.
I noticed there was less traditional Albanian restaurants here than in Saranda and elsewhere, but alternatively there is many Italian inspired restaurants dominating this town selling delicious pasta and pizza.
Himarë is all about the beaches
Himarë has its own beach of course right next to the centre of town and its worth spending a couple of hours relaxing here. There is a few water sports available such as
kayaking, windsurfing and parasailing.
In addition, Himarë is very close to some of the best beaches in Albania, so a good place to base yourself for a few days and do some little day trips.
Jale Beach and Gjipe Beach are two of the best beaches in all of Albania and within 30 minutes’ drive from Himare. To get to Gjipe Beach you must park in the car park and then walk about 20 minutes down a gravel track to the beach.
Surrounded by cliffs, the beach is more intimate and secluded than most on the coastline. Despite the difficulty getting there, facilities are available. Moreover, there is a couple of beach bars to order cold beers, and deck chairs and parasols available for hire.
Gjipe Beach has somewhat of a relaxed vibe to it. As soon as you arrive at the beach there is chilled music playing from one of the bars. As a matter of fact, you can camp overnight on the beach too if you want to. To do so, a Four-wheel drive vehicle is required to drive down the gravel road to reach the beach.
Bonus Stop: Llogara Pass: The best road to drive in Albania
On the way from Himarë and Vlorë you will drive through the Llogara Pass, a winding zigzagging road ascending the Ceraunian Mountains. This is regarded as the best drive in Albania and the views as you drive up the mountains are stunning.
Experience amazing views of the Adriatic Sea and the valleys below from a couple of panoramic viewpoints. You may even get held up by farmers crossing their herd of sheep across the road if you’re lucky!
Albania Road Trip Stop 3: Vlorë
Vlorë was a pleasant surprise, as I hadn’t read too much about the place before I arrived and so didn’t have any great expectations. Vlorë is the 3rd largest city in Albania and sits on a bay where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet. In addition, it is also where Albania first declared independence in 1912.
Best things to do in Vlorë
Explore the Port and Old Town
The main high street, SH8 begins at Plazhi I Ri Beach and heads north onto Boulevard Ismail Qemali. Eventually the street takes you all the way to Vlorë Old Town. In the Old Town, enjoy the colourful pastel-coloured buildings that are unique to this little corner of Vlorë.
As well as this, close by is the Independence Monument, in Flags Plaza, and is highly significant in Albanian history.
Beaches near Vlorë
Not surprisingly Vlorë has some great beaches on the beautiful Adriatic coast, just outside of the centre of town. Alternatively, there is a couple of beaches very close to the city centre, but I would say they are average at best. Undoubtedly, for better beaches head south to Orikum Beach, there is a lot of options on the road in between the two cities.
Tour to Sazan Island - steeped in Mystery
Thirty minutes boat ride from Vlorë port is Albania’s largest island, Sazan Island. Previously a military base, it was only opened to the public in 2015. Trips to the Island are an all-day event and include time on Sazan Island as well as other stops nearby.
Additionally, tours include snorkelling, time on the pristine beaches, exploring secret caves and tunnels and history about this fascinating mysterious island.
Visit an ancient monastery
Another place to visit near to Vlorë is Zvernec Island where you can find St Mary’s Monastery. Built during the 17th century there is a couple of buildings to visit. To get to the island you must cross over an old wooden footpath bridge. Unfortunately, most of the forested small island is not accessible, but if you’re nearby anyway, I would recommend a visit.
Bonus Stop: Apollonia Archaeological Park
8km west of the city of Fier is Apollonia Archaeological Park. Apollonia is an ancient Greek city founded in the 6th century BC. It’s a large complex with monuments and ruins scattered the hills. Plan to spend an hour or so exploring the site and bring a hat as there is little shade.
Albania Road Trip Stop 4: Berat
The road to Berat takes us away from the coast and inland to central Albania. Berat is a UNESCO world heritage site full of culture and is a unique and picturesque place to visit on this itinerary. The city is nicknamed the city of a thousand windows and when you arrive you will understand why.
Best things to do in Berat
Put your walking shoes on and Explore the Old Town
The Mangalem quarter is where you will find the Old Town. Explore the white façade ottoman houses clinging to the hillsides of the surrounding mountains either side of the Osum River. Wear your comfiest shoes as you walk through the winding cobbled, somewhat uneven streets. You’ll definitely get lost and with a lack of street signs this is part of the fun.
Enjoy amazing panoramic views at Berat Castle
Berat Castle sits atop a hill with amazing views overlooking Berat. This is the number one attraction in Berat and can’t be missed. Once inside the castle walls you will find that this is still a living active complex. There are incredible views, as well as churches and mosques built in the Ottoman and Byzantine eras.
You will find hawkers selling clothes, pottery and souvenirs as well as restaurants. Make sure you go to the viewing platform and don’t miss the Holy Trinity Church.
The walk up the castle is steep and will take a good 20-30 minutes. It can be especially tough in the daytime heat, so I advise to go as early as possible. Plan to spend half a day here to fully enjoy and see everything without rushing.
Cross the river and visit the Gorica Quarter
The Gorica Quarter is on the opposite side of the Osum River to the Old Town. There are a few restaurants and hotels in this part of town but the main attraction for me is the view across the river.
From here you have the best view of the thousand windows and can really appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of Berat. Make sure you visit during the day and at night as both offer great views.
Go walkabout along Bulevardi Republika
The Bulevardi Republika comes alive at night. Be here by sunset to experience Xhiro and see the streets change from being nearly empty in the day to packed at night. This street is where you will find a lot of bars and restaurants and green spaces to relax in the day.
Another reason to visit here is an opportunity to take some great photos of the Mangalem quarter where the ottoman houses rise up the mountainside.
Albania Road Trip Stop 5: Përmet
Next stop on the itinerary is Përmet, a small town in the picturesque Vjosa valley in southeast Albania. Known as the City of Roses, it is supposedly the cleanest and greenest city in Albania. The area it also famous for its natural thermal baths.
WARNING: When you leave Berat ensure you head north and take the route via Fier. Google maps will show a much shorter direct route via Polican and Ballaban. What ever you do, don’t take this route.
I did, and learnt the hard way, that this is not a proper road. After driving for nearly 90 minutes, ever so slowly, down barely visible rocky roads I finally came to the realisation this wasn’t going to work. I kept thinking to myself the tarmac road must be around the next corner, but it never came.
Arriving at an impasse I reluctantly decided to turn back, turning my expected 3 hour journey into over 6 hours. When I finally arrived in Përmet my Airbnb host told me I was correct to turn back as many cars have been stuck on that first road. Don’t always trust google maps!
Best things to do in Përmet
Visit Katiu Bridge and the thermal waters of Bënjë
My main reason for staying in Përmet was to visit the Katiu Bridge and the thermal waters in the Lengarica canyon. The stone bridge was built by the Ottomans in the 19th century and is still standing strong today. It’s a 20-minute drive here from Përmet.
Drive as far as you can without crossing the river and you will eventually arrive at a car park (don’t cross the river unless you have a 4×4).
Take your swimmers and camera with you and head towards the bridge. The bridge itself is an attraction, add to this the six thermal pools too. The six thermal pools, legend has it, offer different therapeutic benefits for your skin, stomach, kidney and rheumatic diseases.
The pools are sulphur springs emanating from deep tectonic cracks on either side of the Lengarica canyon. At a temperature of 22c – 28c they are very pleasant to sit in later in the afternoon once the weather cools down a little.
Climb the "City Stone" for the best views of the valley
Right in the middle of town is a huge 25 metre stone monolith known as the City Stone. Awaiting you at the bottom of this cultural monument is a staircase to take you to the top for some amazing views of Përmet and also the surrounding valleys.
As a bonus, there’s a huge Albanian flag swaying in the wind (I always love a phot with a flag!). Entry is free and the hike up the stairs is fairly easy; it should take 5 minutes or so.
Try Gliko, a local sweet only found in Permet
I’d heard that Përmet was famous for something called Gliko, a fruit preserve, similar to Jam but more syrupy. It comes in all different kinds of flavours including Walnut, Fig, Orange to name a few.
I didn’t have to wait long to try it because as soon as I arrived at my Airbnb my host greeted me with a plate of Orange Gliko. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, but it was delicious. Very sweet, and very tasty.
I highly recommend you try some when in town and in addition it makes a great souvenir to take home.
Albania Road Trip Stop 6: Gjirokaster
Last stop on the best Albania Road Trip takes us to the second UNESCO city in Albania, Gjirokaster. Gjirokaster is a charming UNESCO world heritage city famous for its stone slated buildings and its fortress overlooking the city.
This is a unique and intriguing city to visit and the birthplace of the late communist leader Enver Hoxha.
Best things to do in Gjirokaster
Pay a visit to Gjirokaster Castle
Gjirokaster Castle was built at the top of a hill offering great views over the town. The castle is a huge complex and within the walls is a church, a clock tower, a museum, a captured US air-force plane and an old WW2 Italian Fiat tank amongst other things. Entry to the castle is only 200 LEK.
Get lost in the Old Town and Bazaar
The Old Town centres on Qafa e Pazarit and sprawls a few blocks in every direction from here. All the shops display their goods spread out on the streets making the whole area a splash of colour.
Unfortunately, they all sell very similar products and the areas has been turned into a very touristy space. Despite this, I still recommend visiting both in the day and at night to see the place come alive as more restaurants and bars begin to open about 7pm.
Tour a traditional Gjirokaster house - Skenduli
There are only a couple of traditional Gjirokaster houses remaining open to the public that date back many years. They were inhabited by very wealthy families in the past and Skenduli House is still owned by ancestors of the original inhabitants.
The family members will take you on the tour and tell you about the history of the house, past traditions and how they used to live. You also have time to look around yourself afterwards. Entry is 200 LEK and well worth it.
Head off road into the Gjirokaster County Mountains and Countryside
If you stay at Stone City Hostel (recommended below) you will have the opportunity to do a full day tour with the owner Walter. The cost is €30 and there will be a maximum of 6 of you in the back of his jeep.
Walter has made Gjirokaster his home after moving here from the Netherlands. He is very informative, and the tour takes you to some truly spectacular landscapes. I couldn’t tell you the route we took as it was mostly un-signposted off road. This isn’t a trip you could do independently.
Where to stay in Gjirokaster
I only recommend hostels or hotels if I have stayed there and experienced it myself. In Gjirokaster I stayed at Stone City Hostel, and it was by far the best hostel I stayed at in Albania.
In particular, the whole place was very clean and tidy, including numerous bathrooms. Additionally, you have access to a full kitchen, and there is plenty of seating both indoors and outdoors on their lovely, shaded patio.
The staff speak English and are very knowledgeable of the local area and onward transport options.
The final leg of the journey is to drive back to Sarande and return the rental car. On the way back though is one of the most famous attractions in Albania – The Blue Eye
Visit the natural phenomenon - The Blue Eye
The Blue Eye is a naturally occurring very deep spring water pool found 30 minutes from Sarande. It is one of the most popular attractions in Albania, and as a result, I advise arriving as early as possible.
The centre (the eye) of the pool is a beautiful azure shade of blue, best observed from above. The surrounding forest that you walk through to find the blue eye is worth the hike too.
This place gets crazily busy and it’s actually a lot smaller than I imagined. The water is very cold so on a hot day it’s perfect to cool down. You don’t need to spend much time here, once you have your photo, maybe dipped your toes in the water you will want to leave.
Best Albania Road Trip Itinerary: Summary
This concludes the Best Albania Road Trip and places to visit in Albania in the south of the country. I spent two weeks doing this trip which I think is the right amount of time. You could do it in a little shorter time if you wanted to, just pick what locations you want to spend most time at.
I hope you found this article useful and if you follow this route or have any questions please let me know in the comments section below.